3 Weeks in Japan

Tuesday October 23, 2007: Mayor of Himeji, Board of Ed., and PTA Members

2007-11-15T11:17:00.000-08:00

Our first visit today was a meeting with the Mayor of Himeji, Toshikatsu Iwami, at City Hall. His father had been Mayor of Himeji during the American Occupation after WW II. Mayor Iwami told us that Himeji Castle, which we visited yesterday, was the only part of the city that remained unharmed after the war. He also provided us with the following statistics about Himeji:

Population of 540,000
56,000 Students
65 Kindergartens
71 Elementary Schools
35 Junior High Schools
3 High Schools
1 Special Education School

Aside from this data, he stated the “Three Pillars” (initiatives) of the city: Welfare (improving the quality of life and addressing the aging society), Environment, and Education. Mayor Iwami also expressed deep sympathy for the victims of Hurricane Katrina (as Himeji has a sister city in the United States-Phoenix, AZ). He also recommended that we visit the War Citizens’ Memorial Peace Center/Park.

After lunch, we returned to City Hall to meet with members of the Board of Education and PTA. During these sessions, we learned that the student/teacher ratio is 18 to 1 and the class size averages at 40 students! Other interesting statistics…90% of high school students in Himeji go on to college and 98% of students in Himeji walk to school (the rest ride bikes or use public transportation). The PTA members also shared their impressions of American schools. They felt that we enforce strict discipline in our kids when they are young but loosen restrictions as they get older. In Japan, this is reversed. In addition, they believed that class sizes in the US are much lower than in Japan, that classrooms are colorfully decorated, and that the classroom arrangement is typically not in traditional rows as in Japan.

Since museums and temples are closed by the time we end our sessions, we spent the night shopping. The highlight was the 100 Yen Store (comparable to our dollar stores). I ended up buying a bunch of stuff to decorate our classroom. We ended the night with a trip to the “konbini” (convenience store) for some snacks to take back to the hotel.

Monday October 22, 2007: Hyogo University and Himeji Castle

2007-11-15T07:38:00.000-08:00

We set off at 7:30 am for our visit to Hyogo University of Teacher Education, about 1 ½ hours away by bus (beautiful scenic views on the way there). Because we were running early, we stopped at a rest stop for a short break. I was impressed by the careful set up of the conference room when we arrived. We each had a bottle of water, a packet of informational materials about the college, and souvenirs (a washcloth and sticker with the unidentifiable Hyogo University mascot). Do you remember the lesson on business etiquette during our unit on Confucianism…when we read the excerpt about the “Entering the Company” ceremony from Confucius Lives Next Door? During this lesson, I briefly mentioned how conference rooms were set up deliberately during business meetings (the senior members sit in certain seats and the hosts always sit closest to the door)…that his exactly what I experienced here.

At the opening of our morning session (which was basically an overview of their teacher’s program…student teaching is done in just 2 weeks and 70% of their students are females!), we each had to stand up and introduce ourselves in Japanese…“Watashi wa Connecticut no Lin Chi-Ann des. O ai de ki te ure shi des” (“My name is Chi-Ann Lin and I am from Connecticut. I am very pleased to meet you.”) After a short break, we moved to the library classroom (where we treated to cookies and oolong tea) for a Q&A session with professors and students. “Jimmy” Suzuki, a professor at the college, served as the moderator. He was a really funny, warm, and a very memorable guy…he spoke English really well (having spent time at the University of Wisconsin). At the conclusion of our discussion, we took a group picture and our gracious hosts walked us to our bus waving to us as we drove away. This was a fun visit…I only wish that we were able to see the schools and classrooms before we met with the professors and future teachers.

I was really happy that we had the afternoon to explore Himeji Castle, nicknamed the “White Heron Castle” (which is also the city bird). Construction of the castle first began in the 14th century and was completed in the 17th century during the Tokugawa Shogunate. It was deemed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization) in 1993 and is regarded as Japan’s most beautiful castle.

The castle is breathtaking. Upon entering, you are required to take your shoes off and slippers are provided. There are a few exhibits of the tools used to build the castle and pictures of its reconstruction in the mid-20th century. After climbing up very steep stairs, I reached the top of the castle and was surprised to see a Shinto shrine inside the castle. Making my way down the stairs, I exited the castle and explored the castle grounds browsing through a beautiful chrysanthemum (the national flower and imperial symbol...also saw these at Yasukuni Shrine) and bonsai exhibit.

Sunday October 21, 2007: Bullet Train to Himeji

2007-11-14T12:45:00.000-08:00

We checked out of the Tokyo Prince Hotel and headed to Tokyo Station to catch the bullet train to Himeji, a 3 hour train ride. The train was really clean and comfortable. There is a stewardess who walks down the aisles periodically with a refreshment cart. We passed by the cities of Kyoto, Kobe, and Osaka and even caught a glimpse of Mount Fuji. Our group coordinator, Kato-San, told us to gather our luggage and to be prepared to exit the train quickly since it only stopped for a minute in Himeji. We then took a chartered bus to our hotel, Himeji Castle Hotel, just minutes away from the train station. I’m looking forward to the free Internet and coin laundry there.

There are several notable differences between western and Japanese hotels. In Japanese hotels:

1. A yukata (traditional cotton robe w/ obi) is always placed on your bed.
2. You will find a flashlight by your bedside in case we lose power in an earthquake. (In my hotel room here in Himeji, there is some sort of orange mask located in a safety box…not sure what it is since the instructions are only in Japanese.)

3. There is always a "tea station" with a hot water pot, tea cups, and a variety of tea.
4. A copy of The Teaching of Buddha can be found next to a copy of the Bible.
5. The toilets have many functions (seat warmer, bidet, etc.).

After getting settled in to the hotel room, we set off for the Nada Festival (Nada Matsuri) at Usuki Shrine. Although we received directions from Kato-San, it was almost impossible to tell where our subway stops were since nothing is written in English (like it is in Tokyo). Luckily, there were 2 teenage girls on the subway with us that were headed to the same festival so we just followed them. We got there just as the sun was setting and in time to see the procession of the 3 portable shrines carried by men. These portable shrines (palanquins) each traveled down different streets eventually meeting in the front of the shrine. Once there, they “fight” by colliding into one another since it is believed that the collisions please the gods. As we followed the procession of the portable shrine, many Japanese stopped to practice their English with us. Unlike Tokyo (which is full of foreign tourists), we really stood out here in Himeji.

At the festival, there were many food stalls that lined the street reminding me of a town fair in the states. I tried these gooey dough balls with veggies, octopus, and some kind of black sauce. It was very good but it was probably the worst thing I could’ve ordered that night. The crowds here were the worst I’ve ever experienced. We were all literally shoulder to shoulder. After finishing my “octopus balls,” I realized there was no garbage can in sight…when I asked a man at a food stall, he handed me a plastic bag to put my garbage in and I carried it in my purse the entire night. The police were very visible that night but their efforts to push back the crowd were futile. At one point, our group separated since some of us needed to use the bathroom which was located next to the shrine. After our bathroom visit (coed bathroom!), we could not make it back to our group because it was so crowded. (One of the ladies in my group felt a kid reach into her purse so she was quick enough to stop him from stealing something.) We finally reached the front of the shrine in time to see one of the portable shrines stop directly in front of us. The men began swaying the shrine side to side…we really thought we were going to be hit since we were so close. Somehow, we reunited with our group and called it a night. Thankfully, we began chatting with a man on the subway platform as we were waiting and found that he was going the same way. He kindly offered to be our guide, we exchanged business cards with him (he seemed so honored to receive these and studied them carefully before putting them away), and he apologized that he did not have time to take us out for dinner (what an offer after having just met us!).

Saturday October 20, 2007: My Day Off

2007-11-12T13:28:00.000-08:00

I slept in this morning until 7 am…felt great. I mapped out my day at breakfast and set off for Yasukuni Shrine first. (We will talk about this famous shrine during our unit on Shinto and it will come up again in your final exam scenarios.) Yasukuni Shrine was built in 1869 to honor those who fought on behalf of the emperor. Among the war dead enshrined here are convicted war criminals from World War II. Therefore, former Prime Minister Koizumi’s annual visits to the shrine created much tension with China and Korea, countries that were both imperialized by Japan in the 20th century. After walking through 3 torii, I entered the large wooden doors into the courtyard. The shrine was straight ahead and off to the side was an open stage on which 2 women were performing a martial art exhibit. I happened to go at a time when a ceremony was going on in the shrine so I was able to get a picture of the Shinto priests walking by. I went through the Yushukan, a war memorial museum right next to the shrine. It was small but interesting in the way its “military aggression in Asia is glossed over” (according to my Frommer’s Tokyo Guidebook).

I have to say that what I found most interesting was what I came across upon leaving the shrine grounds. Just outside the subway station, a group of Japanese men had set up a poster exhibit protesting a Chinese film on the Rape of Nanking that was going to be released soon. One of the men handed me a flyer in English (I’ll show you guys) and asked me, “How could the Japanese have committed such brutal acts when they were busy rebuilding the city?” I even told him that I was Chinese-American but it didn’t seem to faze him. He even urged me to log on to the recommended websites that would prove his point. The other posters included photographs of the seemingly friendly relationship between the Chinese and Japanese.

After visiting the shrine, I headed to the National Museum of Modern Art. I walked through the special exhibit, a retrospective exhibit of painter Ikuo Hirayama entitled "Pilgrimage for Peace." His works were divided into 4 chapters: "Yearning for Buddha," "The Route Xuanzang Traversed and the Spread of Buddhism in the East," "The Silk Road," and "Prayer for Peace." I purchased the exhibition catalogue to share with you guys.

After a quick lunch, I went to the highly recommended Tokyo National Museum (passing by Ueno Park on my way there) and only had enough time and energy to walk through 2 exhibits. The special exhibit featured beautifully displayed items from the Tokugawa Shogunate (1600-1868) including samurai armor, scrolls, cosmetic cases, etc. I also purchased this exhibition catalogue to show you guys. Both of the special exhibits that I went to at the 2 museums were extremely crowded. The line of people at the Tokugawa exhibit was about 3 people deep so I didn't get as good a look as I had hoped. Needing a break, I went to the "Path of Buddha" exhibit in another part of the Tokyo National Museum which featured different styles of Buddha statues from India to Korea. With very sore feet, I returned to the hotel after the museum visits to pack for our week long stay in our host city of Himeji.

Friday October 19, 2007: Fish Market, Peace Education, Kabuki, and Harajuku

2007-11-08T13:31:00.000-08:00

Our time in Tokyo before we break into our host cities is running short so I ventured out in the early morning again to catch the auctions at the Tsukiji Fish Market (just a couple of subway stops away from our hotel). By the time we arrived (at around 5:30 am), the workers were busy setting up their stalls with the fish they had just bought that morning and setting that day's prices.

We missed the tuna auction but caught an auction for some other type of frozen fish. Tourists aren't allowed into the back room where the auctions take place but we can observe from the door. The market is extremely busy (almost got ran over a couple times) and we were totally in their way. I'm sure many of them get annoyed with having their photographs taken every day.

After spending quite a bit of time in the market, we made our way to the side streets lined by stalls selling shirts, rubber boots, fish products, etc. We stopped at a nearby restaurant for a sushi breakfast. The line was long and we figured that it must be worth the wait since we saw many Japanese standing in line. Breakfast was a set meal consisting of 10 pieces of sashimi plus miso soup with baby clams. It was the best (and freshest) sushi I've ever had. Although it was delicious, we felt pressured to eat quickly since the restaurant was so tiny and could seat only about 10 people at a time.

After our morning fish market adventure, we attended the morning seminar on Peace Education. The speakers were an A-Bomb survivor and the daughter of a survivor who was also a teacher from Hiroshima. The A-bomb survivor spoke eloquently about the need for peace and forgiveness...he conveyed a genuine message of hope and friendship between the U.S. and Japan. What struck me most was how many people have been touched by WW II in some way...many of the American teachers had grandparents who were war veterans and were so moved by his compassion and forgiveness. It was a special experience to witness this.

Our last session for the day was on Kabuki theater, a little more serious than Kyogen (which I wrote about earlier in the week). After a brief host city orientation, I had dinner in Harajuku at Fujimamas, an Asian fusion restaurant recommended in my guidebook. It was really good and a nice break from hotel food. We then browsed in Kiddy Land, a store that sells "character" items (Hello Kitty, Totoro, etc.). It's a huge store with 4 floors of purses, pencils, pillows, lunch boxes, stuffed animals all adorned with popular Japanese "characters"..I'm surprised by how popular this stuff is with not just kids, but adults. Although tempting, I didn't buy anything.

Thursday October 18, 2007: Sumo, Schools, Diet Members, and Shinjuku

2007-11-08T11:48:00.000-08:00

I got up really early this morning to catch a practice session of professional sumo wrestlers in Ginza (the same place where I had dinner on the first night). It is not the season for sumo matches and even if it was, the tickets are very expensive. Someone in my group found out that we could watch the practices for free. With the help of a Japanese couple (who noticed we were clearly lost and insisted on walking us to the exact building), we arrived at the practice at around 7 am. It was awesome and totally worth the early morning trip.

The room was small and intimate. When we got there, the wrestlers were preparing the sumo ring made of dirt by carefully watering and raking it. The preparation of the ring seemed ceremonious in a way and reminded me of a Zen garden. There was an older man who seemed to be the coach but I was surprised to see him reading the paper during the first part of practice. There was also a boy who seemed to be taking notes on the practice and keeping track of who was winning each of the rounds. Something else I didn't expect was the average size of many of the wrestlers. While we were there, several wrestlers rotated in and out against one of the larger wrestlers until he lost. Meanwhile, one wrestler practiced with weights and another was doing leg lifts off to the side of the ring. After watching for about half an hour, we rushed back to the hotel for breakfast and for the first of three lectures/sessions that day.

The first lecture/session (which was on Japanese education) was fantastic. The speaker, Tsutomu Kimura, is the President of the National Institution for Academic Degrees and University Evaluation. As he reported, educators are alarmed not only at decreasing test scores but by the fact that kids are enjoying school less and less (according to research studies). In addition, educators are concerned that while students may acquire much knowledge, they are lacking in their "ability to learn and think by themselves" and their "ability to apply this knowledge." Education reformers are calling for the nurturing of "zest for living" and giving children "room to grow" (by encouraging individualism and creativity). I’ll have to show you guys some of the data presented on his Power Point slides…some of them surprised me given all that we’ve talked about in our Confucianism unit. I totally spaced out on the presentation on the Japanese economy (sorry!...went over my head).

After lunch, 2 Diet members from the House of Representatives, Mr. Yuji Tsushima and Dr. Kuniko Inoguchi, came to speak about the Japanese government. I was really impressed by Dr. Inoguchi…she received her doctorate at Yale University and began her political career under former Prime Minister Koizumi in 2005 serving as the Minister of Social Affairs and later the Minister of Gender Equality. She was extremely articulate and diplomatic in her statements. She addressed some of the issues we talked about in class…the aging population and the decreasing fertility rate. She used the phrase “geriatric peace” to convey how an aging population can positively impact society…making it more susceptible to peace rather than war. As for Article 9 of Japan’s Constitution (which we will talk about later in the semester…it forbids Japan from keeping an army, navy, and air force among other things), Dr. Inoguchi fully supports this peace clause but also recognizes Japan’s obligation to participate in and support international goals such as anti-terrorism. She briefly stated how former Prime Minister Koizumi was not skillful or successful in Sino-Japanese relations compared to his successor, former Prime Minister Abe, who immediately visited with Chinese President Hu after coming into office. Dr. Inoguchi also discussed a study she headed which revealed that 70% of women in the work force submit a letter of resignation after getting pregnant. Although women in Japan are entitled to a one year leave of absence, she found that women aren’t compelled to demand what they are entitled to and feel socially pressured to give up their careers.

I was excited to go to the Edo-Tokyo Museum tonight (my guidebook said it was open until 8 pm) but it was closed so I decided to walk around Shinjuku (this is where the Park Hyatt Tokyo Hotel is located from the film Lost in Translation). I was overwhelmed here. It was extremely busy and fast-paced. My feet were really sore but I finally made my way to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office Building (there are few street signs in Tokyo!) designed by architect Kenzo Tange. I went up to the observatory on the 45th floor to see the gorgeous night view of Tokyo (and it was free).

Wednesday October 17, 2007: Sightseeing in Tokyo

2007-11-07T10:13:00.000-08:00

I could barely sleep last night. I ended up going to bed at 2 am and woke up naturally at 4 am. (Tokyo is about 13 hours ahead of Connecticut.) Deciding not to try falling back asleep, I got up, checked the Internet (frustrating since I accidentally hit the wrong key and couldn’t figure out how to stop typing in Japanese characters), and had breakfast.

After attending the morning orientation, we all went off for a day of sightseeing in Tokyo. Our first stop was the Diet (equivlaent to our Congress)—a relatively brief trip. What I found most interesting was the group of elementary school students standing in line outside the Diet building as we entered. This massive group of 200 American teachers/foreigners (with their very noticeable nametags which had the Japanese translation of our name and our home state) caught their attention. As I walked by, I noticed a small group of kids pointing and giggling at me. It dawned on me that they may have been confused by me being part of this American group since I looked Japanese.

After the quick tour, we had a tempura meal in Asakusa near the famous Sensoji Temple (also the oldest temple in Tokyo). We sat on tatami mats and the seating position was incredibly uncomfortable…my foot fell asleep. We all ate quickly to take advantage of the hour we had free to roam the area. There is one main street with stalls selling various items—exotic flavored ice cream (sweet potato, green tea, taro, etc.), sweets (many of them filled with red beans like the moon cakes we had in class on the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival), lucky cat statues, etc. We made our way down this very crowded street to Sensoji Temple (marked as a must-see in my Tokyo guidebook). I paid 100 yen for my fortune…which warned that a trip was a bad idea at this time. According to tradition, I left my bad fortune at the temple tying it to the wooden rack to negate the ill fortune it brought. And I bought a temple book at the shop to have it signed by the calligrapher. I then walked by Asakusa Shrine, located right next to Sensoji Temple, and I saw wooden plaques with wishes written on them from all over the world. (You'll see these when we talk about Shinto.) These are bought at the temple, you write your wish, and leave it behind for it to come true.

As I wandered, I saw many Japanese people paying their respects at the temple, purifying themselves with water first (washing their hands and rinsing their mouths), receiving an incense blessing, and making their offerings to the temple and its gods. What irony—to see a temple (which we associate with calmness and solitude) in the middle of one of the busiest areas in Asakusa. The masses of people congregated in the area and the presence of numerous souvenir shops seem to take away from the holiness and sacredness of the site.

I also came across my first Japanese style toilet in Asakusa...saw many of these when I visited China.

We really didn’t have enough time to look around and had to make it back to the hotel for the afternoon lecture on Kyogen theater (comedies). I had never heard of it and despite my sleepiness, I thought it was really cool. The speaker was an American (he has had a lot of difficulty being accepted into the Kyogen community as a foreigner). He and his fellow actor performed a short play, “The Inherited Cramp,” in English and it was hilarious. For anyone who is experiencing Kyogen for the first time (like me), it is easy to want to laugh as soon as they begin speaking their lines. It’s hard to describe in words…but they speak in an exaggerated, elongated, slowed manner heavily emphasizing certain syllables…their physical movements are minimal but deliberate and carefully planned. I ordered the DVD copy to show you guys. After a quick but much needed nap, we attended the Welcome Reception. Many food stations were set up so you could enjoy sushi, beef, sake, etc. It was nice way to end the night…on a full stomach.

Monday-Tuesday October 15-16, 2007: The Longest Day

2007-11-06T08:30:00.000-08:00

What a long day…our flight left San Francisco at around 2 pm on Monday but because we crossed the International Date Line, we virtually lost a day and arrived at Narita Airport at around 5 pm on Tuesday. The total flight time was around 9 hours which wasn’t too bad. Watching the movies helped passed the time and I attempted to brush up on some key Japanese phrases in my guidebook ("Doko des ka chikatetsu?"...Where is the subway?...). After getting off the plane, I was impressed with the number of JFMF (Japan Fulbright Memorial Fund) workers holding signs at just about every corner to make sure we didn’t get lost on our way to the chartered buses. We still had a 1 ½ hour drive to the hotel in Tokyo. I could barely keep my eyes open.

As soon as we arrived at the hotel, we were broken into small groups of 3-4 and assigned to a Japanese college student (our dinner host and city guide for the evening), Sayaka Shimazu, who took us out to eat on our first night in Japan. It was such a good idea and I’m glad that my first subway ride was supervised by someone who knew what they were doing. Just looking at the map of the Tokyo Metro is daunting. We ended up eating at a restaurant in Ginza, a couple stops away from our hotel. Ginza is a trendy upscale district…reminding me of NYC except that it is litter-free and there is a noticeable absence of car horns. The restaurant, Komachitei, was empty except for the four of us and a group of very loud businessmen. We sampled pumpkin tofu, sashimi, spring rolls, and boiled potato and carrots…all very good.

Our host for the evening was currently attending Showa Women’s University. She was so sweet and insisted on keeping a list of things we had questions about promising to e-mail us back with the info. Sayaka talked about her retired grandparents who spent time golfing, shared her English textbooks with us, said that soccer was equally if not more popular than baseball, and recommended the Japanese band Exile. She was very interested in what we ate back home, our hobbies, and the movies we watched. She said she loves Beyonce and Christina Aguilera but dislikes Britney Spears, Lindsay Lohan, and Paris Hilton. I noticed her cell phone was very cute, full of dangling charms, and she had a picture of the Chinese actress Zhang Ziyi (from Memoirs of a Geisha) on her screensaver. The other 2 teachers in our dinner group were from Florida and Kentucky—an art teacher and an elementary teacher. We were all equally exhausted from our elongated day of travel and felt awful declining Sayaka’s invitation to walk around the city. By this time, it was 11 pm and we just couldn’t stay up any longer. On our way back to the hotel, I was shocked not only at how busy the streets were so late on a weeknight but by the many businessmen we saw on the subway ride home. Another interesting observation—a “women only” sign on the subway platform...wonder why that is necessary…After a short detour (we missed our stop because we were chatting), we convinced Sayaka that we could find our way back and she headed home. Thank goodness for the Tokyo Tower (which stands right behind our hotel)…a nice and tall landmark you can’t miss.

I have to mention an ESL (English as a Second Language) teacher from Ohio I met at the San Francisco airport before we left for Tokyo. Apparently, she had scanned the list of 200 teachers on the trip and scoped out the teachers with Chinese names. She spotted me at the airport (hard to miss with our name tags) and we chatted for a while. She has led a fascinating life. Before becoming an elementary school ESL teacher, she taught at a university in Beijing and then taught Chinese literature at Cornell University and UC-Davis. She was so sweet and hilarious and reminded me of my own mother. She even spoke some Chinese with me...and I could understand most of it. Her teenage son and daughter are ABCs (American-Born Chinese) just like me. In our conversation, I discovered that she had left China in 1988, just before Tiananmen Square. It turns out that she had some connections to the student leaders. More on her thoughts about the student democracy movement later in the semester…

Sunday October 14, 2007: Off to San Francisco

2007-11-06T08:26:00.000-08:00

After a very long and stressful night trying to adjust the weight on my luggage to meet the ridiculous 50 lb. requirement, I caught an early morning flight into San Francisco for the orientation meeting before heading to Japan. I had a feeling I’d be over the limit and I was. Having paid the fee, my only regret was not packing just a bit more into my suitcase.

After the uneventful orientation in San Francisco where we were reminded of basic customs (wearing of slippers and the infamous Japanese bath…more on this later), we had to change quickly into “professional attire” to attend dinner at the consulate general’s home. His home was gorgeous located in the heart of the city…for a while, I wasn’t sure the bus would make it all the way to the top of the hill. We were greeted on the patio by waiters serving wine. After a series of speeches, we entered the dining room where we were met with a massive spread of food including dumplings, sashimi, and a replica of the Golden Gate Bridge made out of carrots (at least I think they were). There was a beautiful view of the real bridge from the dining room window. I wish I had taken a picture…